When your furnace quits working or it is not keeping your house up to temp. Make sure to check your furnace filter before you call us to come out. It could save you a lot of money. If you have pets we recommend you change them every 30 days.
Is your water heater leaking? If so, do you know why? Water heaters leak for many reasons. Sometimes due to age. If your water heater is over ten years old and you have never had a service tech flush the tank then it will likely start leaking from the bottom of the tank soon .
Always have a water heater changed out by a licensed plumber. They have experience,education and skill to recommend and safely install a water heater .
Professionals know the local code. They also have a wider selection of products and more knowledge of products that are of excellent quality.
It is the safest and smartest thing to do for you and your family.
There is usually a lot of confusion about the differences between Electric and Gas water heaters. Electric water heaters cost less upfront for the unit and install than gas, but depending on your local utility costs, electric water heaters are typically more expensive in the long run. Gas water heaters generally make up for that cost difference in your utility bills, sometimes even within one year.
Gas water heaters use the heat from burning a fuel (usually natural gas) to heat water, while an electric water heater uses electric resistance coils.
When comparing gas vs electric water heater operating cost, its said that gas is almost always cheaper than electric. Gas water heaters typically cost about $30 a month to run, while electric water heaters run closer to $42 a month, depending on utility rates, of course. This analysis of gas vs electric water heater water heater operating costs is based partially on the fact that natural gas is typically less expensive than electricity. Assume that you already have access to natural gas in your home. Having to put in a natural gas line would add expense and mean that it would take much longer to realize any potential hot water heater savings.
Thermal expansion is important to know about when you have a closed plumbing system in your house. A closed plumbing system is when you have a check valve installed in line, that restricts the water from back flowing into the cold side of the system. A check valve at the at the water meter or a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) that will make your home a “closed system”.
Thermal Expansion of water in a closed plumbing system can create a number of annoying and potentially dangerous problems. These include; the build up of unusually high pressure in a system (even when a pressure reducing valve is installed), pressure surges, and the continuous dripping of your temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P). In Addition, dripping faucets, leaking toilet fill valves are also symptomatic of thermal expansion.
More serious problems can also occur due to thermal. When dangerous pressures are built up in a water heater, internal parts may fail such as the internal flues, fittings or water connections. If a flue way collapses it can lead to the potential release of toxic gases, such as carbon monoxide into living spaces. Thermal expansion can also lead to a ruptured or distorted hot water heating tank and may void the manufacturers warranty.
Plumbing codes require you to address this safety issue. No matter what your thermal expansion problem may be, whether for new construction or for retrofitting or remodeling an existing there are plenty of affordable options to fix these issues.
When water is heated it expands. For example, water heated from 90 degrees F to a thermostat setting of 140 degrees F in a 40 gallon water heater. It will expand by almost one-half gallon. This is because when water is heated, its density decreases and its volume expands. Since water is not compressible the extra volume created by expansion must go someplace. During no-flow period in a system, pressure reducing valves, backflow preventers, and other one way check valves are closed. Thus eliminating a path for the expanded water to flow back to the system supply. Hence, system pressure increase. This is where thermal expansion tanks and valves come into play.
Thermal Expansion Tanks and Valves
When the water is heated in a closed system it expands. Water is not compressible, therefore, the additional water volume has to go someplace. When an expansion tank is installed the excess water enters the pre-pressurized tank (set at normal house pressure). As the temperature and pressure reaches its maximum, the diaphragm flexes against an air cushion (air is compressible) to allow for increased water expansion. When the system is opened again or the water cools, the water leaves the tank and returns to the system.
As the water temperature increases, the expanded water is received by the tank.
As the water and pressure reaches its maximum, the diaphragm flexes against the air cushion to allow for increased water expansion.
Thermal Expansion Valves
Thermal Expansion Relief Valves are used in the same circumstance as expansion tanks, but instead of expanding within expansion tank, the expansion will escape within the valve and go out through a drain port routed to your nearest floor drain. These are commonly used when there is not enough room for an expansion tank, when these fail you will see a steady flow of water going through the drain tube rather than a normal couple drips. If this problem goes unnoticed for long periods of time you will begin to waste a tremendous amount of water. So make sure you have this routed to a visible floor drain!
Most water heater tanks are steel with a thin glass lining to protect the metal from corrosion. Since the lining eventually cracks due to the minerals, rust and sediment in the water. Water heaters need a second line of defense. A long metal “anode rod” that attracts all the corrosive elements in the water. These anode rods are made from magnesium, aluminum or aluminum/zinc alloy. Anode rods usually are completely corroded after 5 years, but if you have hard water and are aware of that, the rod may last as little as 2 years. This is something that can be replaced periodically and can sometimes double the life of your water heater. This little bit of maintenance can really save you money in the long run. People are often unaware that you are able to replace these rods and extend the life of your water heater!
Sediment and Hard Water
Is sediment buildup harmful? The amount of sediment that builds up in your water heater will depend heavily on where you are located. If your city water supply is filtered and you water is naturally soft with little mineral content, then you may have very little sediment, but that little amount of sediment will separate from your water once heated. Build up in the bottom of the water heater tank. In other areas you may have a large build up of sediment.
A small amount of sediment at the bottom of your water heater is not serious, and can be removed by flushing your water heater annually. This can really extend the life of your water heater because the minerals in the sediment attack the tank and cause leaks over time. A deep layer of sediment displaces water and reduces the amount of hot water available for your use. This sediment can also affect the efficiency of your water heater because the burner is then having to transfer the heat through the sediment and can overheat the bottom of the tank. Overheating can weaken the steel and damage the lining of the tank. With Electric water heaters, if the sediment covers the bottom heating element, the element can overheat and burn out. If it gets into got water circulating systems it can cause problems with the pump, valves and fixtures they are serving.
Sediment can cause noises like popping and other strange sounds as water between the tank bottom and layer of sediment turns to steam bubbles. This is a warning sign that your water heater may be on the verge of going out and you should be maintaining your system in a different way in the future. A simple flush could add years onto your water heater, this removes some of that harmful sediment that causes issues within your water heater.
Hard water will have a similar effect as sediment except picture white calcium build up instead of sediment. This can build up much faster in certain situations and will cause very similar issues. If you know your water is extremely hard then you should consider filters, or water softeners. These can make a huge difference for all your fixtures, appliances, look of your water, and most of all the taste. These are all extremely important variables to consider that will save you money in the end. If you address these issues correctly you could increase the life span of your water heater by as many as 5 years in serious cases.
Gas Water Heaters
Cost Less To Operate
Lasts Average Of 13 Years
Takes Less Time To Reheat Water
Works During Power Outage
Less Efficient. More Heat Loss.
Electric Water Heaters
Costs More To Operate
Lasts Average Of 12 Years
Takes More Time To Reheat Water
Won’t Work During Power Outage
More Efficient. No Heat Loss.
People will often have a their cast iron boilers replaced with 90% efficiency boilers to save money . When these boilers are being installed you MUST follow the manufactures recommendations for piping methods and pump placement. These are extremely important to follow strenuously or else many other problems could arise. A lot of these problems may not be noticed or show up for up to 3 years. Which often times will be as the warranty expires. The problem with these issues is when they occur they often are confused with normal problems. Such as; Temperature and pressure relief valves (TNP’s) , Expansion Tanks, Fill Valves, Zone Valves and Air Separators.
When these problems are fixed they will keep rearing their head and will start to cost a lot of money. It may seem as if this issue will never go away. This is when you need to have a skilled boiler technician come in and take an extensive look at your system. The technician needs to be looking at all variables of your system. Starting from the very beginning.
First the technician will need to make sure that your boiler is properly sized for your home. This is extremely important because if your boiler is undersized it will not properly supply your home on a day when every zone is calling (all rooms need heat). And if your boiler is over sized you will be dealing with boiler short cycling (turning off without reaching peak efficiency) when there aren’t enough zones calling. When your boiler is over sized you also risk over heating rooms, because your boiler is then heating up the water too quickly and not able to properly monitor the temperature of water it is sending to your zones.
The next variable to look at is your how the boiler is piped and if it is to manufacturers recommendations. This is one of the problems that goes unnoticed by many installers and technicians. This is important because if its not piped correctly your hot water may be mixing before serving the zones which will cut your efficiency down and in some cases in half. Sometimes this can be pricey to fix, but this is extremely important and worth the investment. Because if your boiler is running at max efficiency you will save more money each year on your utilities. Therefore you will get a return on your investment to re pipe your system.
The other very important part of your system are your pumps. If your pumps are in the improper location they will not properly serve your zones. Often times if your pump is placed incorrectly. The water will take the path of least resistance and can mix with cold water therefore crushing your efficiency or the water may push back to your boiler and overheat your heat exchanger causing it error out on high limit. When your boiler codes out on high limit this will make it so your heating or domestic needs are not met. This can go unnoticed in heating and DHW (Domestic Hot Water) often because if you have a really big zone calling. The Boiler still be distributing enough water so that your boiler will not error on high limit. When you have a call for a smaller zone it will then create that issue. When your boiler is supplying a DHW tank this can go unnoticed because you will still have the hot water you need and your tank will still be satisfied but not in the most efficient way possible.
The problems previously mentioned will sometimes take months or even years for the problem to go noticed. Making them very confusing and frustrating for the customer and also the technician. This is something that can be very hard to explain to a customer and often times ends up being blamed on a technician. Even when the original installer can be to blame. Hydronic systems can be very tricky to dial in once installed improperly.
The Guardian Air by RGF uses Photohydroionizationin (PHI) in conjunction with enhanced UV light and is designed to eliminate sick building syndrome risks by reducing odors, air pollutant, VOCS (chemical odors), smoke, mold bacteria and viruses. The HVAC-PHI Cells are easily mounted into your heating and air conditioning systems air ducts where most sick building problems start. When the HVAC system is in operation the HVAC-PHI Cell creates an Advanced Oxidation Process consisting of, Hydro-Peroxides, super oxide ions and hydroxide ions. All are friendly oxidizers. By friendly oxidizers we mean the oxidizers revert back to oxygen and hydrogen after the oxidation of the pollutant.
The Guardian Air unit size, is scaled to accommodate the various air flow rates of different HVAC systems. Locate the air blower size in cubic feet per minute (CFM) of the HVAC system you are intending to install the system in, then pick the model number that corresponds to that flow rate. Therefore, there is a unit available to install in almost any HVAC application.
Germicidal UV Light vs Photohydroionization
Germicidal UV light rays have been used for decades by the medical industry as a method for destroying micro-organisms (germs, viruses, bacteria). UV light is dependable and can be easily installed in HVAC ducts or a plenums. Germicidal UV light is effective in reducing only the airborne micro-organisms that pass directly through the light rays. However, germicidal UV light has little to no effect on gases, vapors or odors.
Photohydroionization Advanced Oxidation, on the other hand, is very effective on gases, vapors, VOCS and odors. UV light enhanced by a hydrated quad-metallic compound target develops an advanced oxidation reaction that creates an Advance Oxidation Process (AOP). This process also produces hydro-peroxides, super oxide ions and hydroxides. By engineering the proper UV light wavelength, in combination with a triple function, no maintenance unit. The PHI Cell provides safe AOP to purify the air. With the RGF HVAC-PHI Cell Advanced Oxidation System, micro organisms can be reduced by over 95%. Gases, VOCs and odors can also be reduced significantly, and the room will have hydro peroxides, super oxide ion and hydroxides which will help give your room fresh, clean and odor free air.
The breakthrough in the RGF advanced oxidation technologies is a group of oxidants known as hydro-peroxides. Hydro-peroxides have been a common part of our environment for over 3.5 billion years. Hydro-peroxides are created in our atmosphere when ever three components are present: oxygen molecules, water vapor and energy (electro magnetic). REME also has the ability to super charge these hydro-peroxides or ionize them into Ionoized-Hydro-Peroxides.
Ionized-Hydro-Peroxides are very effective at destroying harmful microbial’s in the air and on surfaces. As oxidants, they do this by either destroying the microbe through a process known as cell lysing or by changing the molecular structure and rendering it harmless (which is the case in VOC’s and odors). The amount of hydro-peroxides required to accomplish this task in a conditioned space is well below the level that is constantly in our outside air. The Advanced Oxidation Technology found in RGF’s Guardian Air product family has brought the oxidants found in the outside air into the conditioned space of your home.
There is no known case of hydro-peroxides ever creating a health risk. Over the past 20 plus years RGF has more then 1 million Advanced Oxidation products successfully used worldwide without a safety problem.
- Tested on H1N1 Swine Flu with 99+% Kill on surfaces
- ISO-Level 3 particulate reduction in a bio-chamber (better than HEPA Filtration)
- 4-log reduction (99.9%) surface bacteria/virus reduction
- Over 90% VOC reduction
- 88% of microbes in human sneeze killed at 3 feet
- 97% airborne bacterial reduction
- 99% reductions of Ecoli, Listeria, Strep and Bird Flu
- 85% odor reduction
- 97% airborne mold reduction
- US Military approved for mold protection in field hospitals
- Hospital approvals Infectious Diseases – U.S. and International 99% reduction of STAPH (MRSA)
- Major US city school reports 20% reduction in absenteeism
- Tested and approved by the Chinese Government for protection against SARS virus
- Approved by the USDA, FSIS and FDA for use in food processing plants
- Fox News three-part indoor air series featured RGF and concluded substantial mold and bacteria reductions.
- RGF’s technology has been featured on Fox, ABC, CBS, and in Popular Science Magazine.
We have installed many of these with great reviews from every customer! We are proud to be installing RGF REME products in Northern Colorado. If you would like to improve the air quality in your home today! Call Ace Hi Plumbing, Heating and Air for any of your plumbing or heating concerns!
When troubleshooting a Power Vent water heater the venting often goes unnoticed even if there is an issue. The venting is so important to inspect on Power Vent Water Heaters because if they are sloped the wrong direction condensation will makes its way to the blower and damage it. Power vents don’t always form condensation, but there are a couple different variables that do cause them to condensate.
-Ambient temperature and humidity of installation location
-Ambient temperature and humidity of venting space
-Vent distance, slope, and correct product usage
-Vent has slope minimum of 1/8″ AWAY from the blower – Horizontal Applications
-Know the proper vent lengths for the model water heater (see table below)
These are the variables you need to pay especially close attention to when inspecting the venting. If you do notice an issue where the Power Vent is condensating a condensate kit is available to install. This is a Fernco exhaust adapter with a drain outlet that you pipe to the drain using vinyl tubing. An inexpensive part that will solve the condensate problem.
Check for vent blockage and determine if the vent could become clogged by surrounding vegetation. If so, consult with the home owner on a solution to make sure the problem does not repeat itself.
Its extremely important to make sure there is adequate air for combustion and ventilation. An insufficient supply of air will cause re-circulation of combustion products resulting in air contamination that may be hazardous to life. In Such conditions you will notice a yellow,luminous burner flame, causing carbon build up or sooting of the combustion chamber, burners and flue tubes with possible damage to the water heater.
Vents are susceptible to freezing and can be very easy to overlook. If the burner wont stay lit you should check to make sure there are no obstructions and investigate the possibility of frozen vent.
Troubleshooting codes and Vent Length Table
The link below includes a table to troubleshoot any issues you may have
The link also includes Maximum vent length including number of allowed elbows
Proper Combustion Air
Combustion air is very important for a water heater to run correctly. All different variables should be considered. When an exhaust fan is installed in the same room with a water heater, sufficient openings for air must be provided in the walls. Undersized openings will cause air to be drawn into the room through the venting and causing circulation of combustion products. A very common solution to this problem is the installation of a louvered door.
The formula to correctly determine proper openings
All air coming from inside the building: an opening must have a minimum free area of 1 inch² (6.5 cm²) per 1000 BTU (0.29 kw) per hour of the total input rating of all gas utilization equipment in the confined space, but not less than 100 inches² (645 cm²). One opening must be within 12 inches (31 cm) of the top and one with 12 inches (31 cm) of the bottom of the enclosure.
All Air coming from Outdoors: The confined space must be provided with two permanent openings, one commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) of the top and one commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) from the bottom of the enclosure. The openings must communicate directly, or by ducts, with the outdoors or spaces (crawl or attic) that freely communicate with the outdoors.
- When directly communicating with the outdoors, each opening must have a minimum free area of 1 inch² (6.5 cm²) per 4000 BTU (1.2 kw) per hour of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure.
- When communicating with the outdoors through vertical ducts, each opening must have a minimum free area of 1 inch² (6.5 cm²) per 4000 BTU (1.2 kw) per hour of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure.
- When communicating with the outdoors through the horizontal ducts , each opening must have a minimum free area of 1 inch² (6.5 cm²) per 2000 BTU (0.6 kw) per hour of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure.
- When ducts are used, they must be of the same cross-sectional area as the free area of the openings to which the connect. The minimum dimensions of rectangular air ducts must be not less than 3 inches (7.5cm)
Specially Engineered Installations
The requirements noted under the CONFINED SPACES above must not necessarily govern when special engineering, approved by the authority having jurisdiction, provides an adequate supply of air for combustion, ventilation, and dilution of flue gases.
Sequence of Operation
The sequence of operation is important to know so you can properly diagnose the problem.
Control Sequence of Operation
Start up sequence
Upon powering up, the control checks for the presence of the resistive plug, if the resistance is in the expected range the control will begin normal operation after 5 to 8 seconds.
Normal Heating Sequence
- The thermostat senses a need for heat.
- The control checks the pressure switch condition.
- If the pressure switch is open, the control sends power to the blower motor.
- The blower starts moving combustion air through the combustion system.
- The pressure switches closes.
- The control senses the closed pressure switch and starts the ignition process by providing a spark at the pilot electrode and allowing gas to flow to the pilot.
- When the pilot is lit the gas control senses the pilot flame and opens the main gas valve.
- The main burner is lit.
- The main burner and blower continue to operate until the thermostat is satisfied.
- When the thermostat is satisfied the main and pilot gas valves close.
- The blower operates for a short post purge period before shutting down.
- The water heater remains in the stand-by mode until the next call for heat.
- Make sure Power Vent is plugged into a grounded outlet.
- Make sure you have correct continuinty
- Annually check the operation of the thermostat
- The flow of combustion and ventilation air MUST NOT be restricted. Clear the combustion air openings of any dirt, dust, or other restrictions. WARNING! The ventilation air system may be HOT.
- At all times keep the water heater area clear and free from combustible materials, gasoline and other flammable vapors and liquids.
- Bi-annually conduct a visual check of the main and pilot burner flames to determine that they are burning properly. see Burner Flame Check. If sooting or other burner anomalies are evident, shut down the water heater by turning off the gas per the instructions listed in this manual or as listed on the water heater.
- Annually remove the inner door and main burner assembly to clean orifices and related parts of any dirt or other foreign material. Inspect the burner ports for obstructions or debris and clean with a wire brush as needed. Wire brush and/or vacuum clean the combustion chamber as needed to remove scale deposits and debris. NOTE: It is imperative for proper operation of the water that the inner door replaced in the original location.
- At least once a year, check the combination temperature and pressure relief valve to insure that the valve has not become encrusted with lime. Lift the lever at the top of the valve several times until the valve seats properly without leaking.
- Monthly drain off a gallon of water to remove silt and sediment.
- If the combination temperature and pressure relief valve on the appliance discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion in a closed water supply system. Contact the Ace Hi Plumbing, Heating and Air to help correct this problem. Do not plug the combination temperature and pressure relief valve outlet.
- A combination sacrificial anode rod/hot water outlet nipple has been installed to extend tank life. The anode rod should be inspected annual and replaced when necessary to prolong tank life. Water conditions in your area will influence the time interval for inspection and replacement of the anode rod. The use of a water softener may increase the speed of anode consumption. More frequent inspection of the anode is needed when using softened (or phosphate treated) water.
- The blower has sealed motor bearings and does not require adding oil.
There are many different choices out there on the type of tank water heater to have installed in your home. And we will explain to you why we choose Bradford White over many of the other brands.
When your spouse doesn’t have hot water do you want to wait over the weekend while waiting for parts to come in for your other brand water heaters? Bradford whites parts are readily available for same day repair. There should be no reason you go that weekend or even a night without hot water when you chose to install a Bradford White product.
While many other companies have moved manufacturing facilities out of the country, Bradford White stays invested in American Jobs and Growth. As demand grows they continue to grow their manufacturing facility in Middleville, Michigan.
Types of Water Heaters
There are many different types of water heaters to choose from. If you already have a specific type installed it is recommended you go with the same type.
Direct Vent water heaters utilize a co-axial (pipe inside a pipe) vent pipe that takes air in from the outside (outer vent) and vents combustion gases directly back to the outside (outer vent). It is perfect choice for situation with insufficient combustion air. Direct vent water heaters water is heated by the heat of fuel combustion. A Direct vent system typically results in lower heating costs, because the exhaust gases are vented vertically, with no extra power required as in the case with the power vent water heater. No electricity required. Used in both LP and Natural Gas applications.
This is the most common gas water heater. Its called “atmospheric vent” because warm air rises, the hot gases created by combustion are pulled by natural convection up a vertical metal flue through the roof to the outside. The air around the base of the water heater is pulled into the burner chamber for combustion by the same convection flow. Its a very simple system that does not require electric power or moving parts. Which is why you see these used in most applications.
There is also a Damper Atmospheric Vent model that feature an automatic flue damper that helps reduce stand by heat loss. The flue damper, combined with additional insulation and heat traps, These units have one of the highest Energy Factor (EF) ratings for atmospheric vent models.
Power Vent models are power vented for positive exhaust. They offer greater installation flexibility with the ability to vent through the wall or roof, with either 2″ or 3″ PVC, ABS or CPVC pipe. Power vent water heaters use a blower or fan to exhaust gases by pushing them through the vent pipes that are horizontal. In some situations, this may be the only type of water heater that makes sense, because a chimney or vertical vent is not necessary. Some locations don’t have access to a chimney or vertical vent so your options are limited. These are nice because a Power Vent can be vented by simply running inexpensive pipe horizontally.
However the drawback to this type of water heater is the total cost considering the blower/fan portion of the vent requires electricity to operate as well as the cost of the blower and running a power line to the unit. Noise is also a disadvantage from the blower fan running. But when installed properly the noise can be minimized or nearly eliminated.
Power Direct Vent
Power Direct Vent models are the solution to installation that lack sufficient air for combustion and require installation flexibility. All models of power direct vent water heaters can vent vertically or horizontally and are also approved for direct-vent, closed combustion applications. Solid core PVC is used for the exhaust vent and Cellular core PVC is used for the combustion air in. This application does require electricity to power the direct vent.
High Efficiency (HE) water heaters extract heat out of the exhaust gases to heat the water, just like your standard Atmospheric Vent water heaters. But they include a secondary heat exchanger that maximizes the heat transfer process to extract as much heat energy as possibly out of the combustion process.
Sealed Combustion water heaters maintain the “seal” by using designated intake and exhaust pipes to connect them directly to the outside. They are controlled so when hot water is needed the blower kicks in and draws air directly from the outside into the combustion chamber, with the fuel, and the exhaust gets power vented directly out of the building with the same blower that drew it in but through another designated pipe rather then through a chimney.
Condensing is the next key process to achieve higher efficiency. A second heat transfer process is achieved by lengthening the exit path the exhaust travels using a secondary heat exchanger, frequently featuring a coiled design for maximum surface area, though some models use a reversed travel path (down, up, down again) And as this heat transfer occurs, the exhaust gases cool to the temperature where water vapor condenses out of the exhaust’s air stream back into liquid water (just like water from the air condenses on the outside of a cold drink), releasing the latent heat of vaporization which is used to further heat the water in the system. (The resulting liquid condensate leaves the system via a designated condensate drain.) The exhaust gases end up cool enough that PVC can be used for the venting, but those gases also lose stamina as they travel, which is why all HE units are power vented (fan assisted).
When dealing with warranty issues you commonly have to deal with customer service. Normally that would be a headache. But with Bradford White you know you are getting better quality customer service than any other manufacturer and will make sure you are happy with your product.
Warranties are among some of the biggest concern to the customer, with good reason. Which is why we stand behind Bradford White. When your tank fails and is under warranty there is a process that we must go through to get your tank paid for. We must pay for the new tank being installed and wait for reimbursement from the manufacturer. If we did not originally install the product there is a chance that you may have to pay for the water heater and get reimbursed from manufacturer. Bradford White water heaters have fewer problems than any other brands. And when there is an issue they will go out of their way to make it right for the installer and the consumer.
Big Box Stores
Typically when choosing a water heater a customer will go to a Big Box Store and pick one out themselves. Normally this wouldn’t be an issue, but with water heaters you are not getting the quality of product that we can get from our distributor and often times you are spending more money for that water heater. This is being said from years of installing both products and seeing parts fail more frequently on models from big box stores. The parts for these water heaters are not as readily available for a quick and smooth repair. In many cases when going with a Big Box Store for your water heater install you will be dealing with their warranty department which can typically be a 7 day wait. With Bradford White water heaters, you know you are getting a quality product at a reasonable price. If any parts do fail on your Bradford White at any point it will be possible to have a same day repair. Compared to having to wait 2-5 days for parts to come in on your other models. With our customers best interest in mind we strongly suggest to stray away from Big Box Stores brands.
There are a few things to have in mind when considering installing an energy star water heater. They advertise a rebate associated with having a certain EF Rating of .67 (Energy Factor Rating). This rebate comes to around $70 in Larimer County and may be even less depending on your County. Getting a water heater with this EF rating will cost you more money upon install. Usually 300-500 dollars more.You will on average save 7% annually. When considering this install you should also consider future repairs and how long you may have to wait for these parts. This should be a huge deciding factor because often times you may have to wait 2-5 days for your parts to come in and will have to suffer without hot water.
Overall we feel Bradford White is a better install option for our customers.